Buriano, the inland side of Castiglione.

Castiglione della Pescaia is an address many visitors associate with the sea. Buriano asks you to turn inland. This village belongs to the same municipality, but its reference points are a hill, the remains of the Rocca Aldobrandesca and the countryside towards Vetulonia. The contrast is a useful reminder that a coastal municipality can contain several very different journeys.

Visit Tuscany identifies the church of Santa Maria Assunta and a small Museum of Sacred Art among the village’s cultural places. Treat them as reasons to enquire rather than promises of an open door: a small collection may require arrangements that a large city museum does not. The fortress photograph accompanying this story dates from 2015 and is not a report on today’s access conditions.

The rewarding approach is a modest one. Leave enough time to walk the streets, pause in the central square and understand the relationship between the village and the surrounding hills. Avoid designing an ambitious circuit around a succession of assumed openings. One confirmed visit, with time left over, can be the more satisfying day.

For anyone contemplating a longer stay, the questions change again. Check the exact walking route from the car, provisions, heating and the journey to services outside the village. A place can be appealing without solving every practical need. Discovering that distinction early is part of travelling thoughtfully, especially when a holiday begins to suggest something more permanent.